Marni to present fashion show in Tokyo on February 1, 2023 – WWD | Bot To News

MILAN – Francesco Risso is preparing to present his Fall 2023 collection for Marni in Tokyo, the Italian brand’s creative director said in an exclusive interview.

This confirms a WWD report from October.

The show will be held on February 1 at 8:00 p.m. local time.

“A year ago, I decided to organize a series of traveling shows with our team and a team of musicians to bring energy to different cities and give back to our friends and communities around the world,” said Risso. “But these are not repeat shows,” he stressed.

Risso stressed that the goal is “to be present in the epicenters of our communities and not somewhere remote or isolated.” The show is expected to host around 2,500 guests.

Without a doubt, Japan is historically one of Marni’s most important markets. In a joint interview with Risso, CEO Barbara Calò said that Marni in 2022 is expected to report a 30 percent increase in sales in Japan compared to 2021 and in recent days, data shows a higher achievement compared to forecasts.

Japan accounts for 23 percent of total sales, the executive said.

Marni in 2022 is seeing a 31 percent increase in global revenue compared to 2021, but Calò declined to provide a figure for worldwide sales ahead of the official reveal at the end of the fiscal year. This is expected in the first quarter of 2023.

Matrix OTB does not break down revenue by brand, but market sources peg Marni’s sales in 2021 at more than €220 million.

Calò attributed the brand’s overall growth to strong performance across all categories, noting that gains are being achieved “in a healthy way”.

“I like this balance, there’s no fear of us relying on just one bag,” Risso said, smiling.

A branch of Marni in Japan opened in 2000 and there are currently 28 outlets in the country: two independent stores, 23 in-store stores and three outlets.

A second flagship in Tokyo will open in the next two years, following a first unit in Omotesando dating back to 2019, Calò continued. The plan is to launch Risso’s new store concept, first unveiled in Milan on Via Montenapoleone during the Salone del Mobile in June, emphasizing the locations as creative hubs and the brand’s ties to art.

Marni is available in department stores ranging from Isetan to Takashimaya, located on the luxury floors, Calò stressed, noting that the spaces of these stores are being expanded to give more visibility to all Marni categories.

Business is surely a consideration, but Risso also emphasized the strong influence that the country and its culture have on his design sensibility.

“I finally managed to return to Japan a month ago and once again it was a very pleasant and enlightening trip,” said Risso, who before the pandemic traveled to the country two or three times a year, “also for research and to meet people. I have strong ties with Japan.” He said he is “in love with the architecture of Tokyo in the 1960s.”

Risso held his first show for Marni in New York in September, during the city’s fashion week, and assured that the goal with the show in Tokyo will be to “celebrate that location, as we did in New York. We don’t want to be disconnected from the city.”

New York was the first leg of a series of traveling shows. Risso said he has four planned, but does not yet know the cities where the next two shows will be held. The idea is to show again in Milan in 2024, where the brand is, and when the brand celebrates its 30 birthday

Marni’s New York show was held under the Joralemon Tunnel in Brooklyn, which had a front row of high powerincluding Madonna, Kendall Jenner, Doja Cat and James Harden, among others, and was set to music by Dev Hynes and The String Orchestra of Brooklyn.

Hynes will also perform in Tokyo, but Risso will also include collaborators, artists and musicians from Japan “by osmosis, in a strong interaction and exchange,” he said. Although he is keeping the name of the location under wraps for now, he said it has “a deep connection to the creativity of the collection.” As he did in New York, Risso will ask friends from home to also walk the runway with models.

Traveling allows you to “learn about the culture of different countries, create strong relationships and understand what attracts people. I have always been fascinated by what I call a gray area,” he said. As an example, Risso spoke of his “amazing and beautiful experience” walking in total darkness at Tamagawa Daishi Temple. “This is to say about Japanese culture.”

Risso joined Marni in 2016, presenting his first collection for the brand’s fall 2017 season, and succeeding the brand’s label. artistic director Consuelo Castiglioni. In 2015, Rosso’s OTB group assumed full control marnithree years after acquiring a 61 percent stake in the Italian fashion company.

Risso, whose past experiences include the Prada Group and stints at Anna Molinari, Alessandro Dell’Acqua and Malo, brought clashing prints, vibrant colours, deconstructed silhouettes, generous volumes and asymmetrical cuts. marni. The designer, also drawn to surrealism, often injects naive or grungy vibes into the looks, which have a new and rebellious attitude.

Risso said he is adopting “the quality that must last over time, and the discipline, as well as the skills and patience needed to create special objects. I think we’ve seen enough of cynicism and brutalism. I’m not interested in creating products that brutalize human expression. My mission is to dress people and I’m not working with blinkers, I think about what surrounds us, but I also aim to create a comfortable and pleasurable world”.

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